If there is one dish that epitomises the hot and sunny Andalusian summers, it’s salmorejo. This chilled creamy tomato soup, similar to gazpacho but thicker and creamier, is unexpectedly refreshing on a hot day. Typical across Andalusia, and most of Spain, Salmorejo originated in Cordoba, where you can still find the original recipe painted on a wall in the labyrinth of twisting alleyways of the historic city centre. The trick is finding it.
As the urban legend has it, the recipe had been intentionally hidden on this wall to preserve its integrity. But the locals smirk at this idea, pointing out that there is no better way to hide the real recipe of the original Cordovan salmorejo than to immortalise a decoy.
Whichever story is true, finding the recipe is no mean task. While the tiny back alley where it’s concealed is called Calleja del Salmorejo Cordobes (Cordoba Salmorejo Alley), it is not marked in any maps! If you are trying to find it, navigate to Taberna Restaurante La Fragua, which is a good spot to try the soup too.
The recipe below contains the original list of ingredients and follows the process shared by my host in rural Andalusia, who often cooked it for me. These quantities serve four.
Want to know more about food and eating out in Spain? Read our Spain food guide.